Tips for Summer Sunning

Written by Mary Welch Thursday, June 10 2010

Snapshot: Dr. Hadley King
Dr. Hadley King is a board-certified dermatologist specializing in general, medical, surgical, and cosmetic dermatology. She is also a clinical instructor of dermatology at the Weill Medical College of Cornell University.

She recently endorsed Nelsons Pure & Clear, which was developed for the treatment of acne.

King offered some opinions on protecting your skin during swim season.

Womenetics: Tell us about your background.
Dr. Hadley King: I graduated magna cum laude from Harvard College with a degree in biochemistry. I then received an M.D. from Columbia University and trained in medicine at Greenwich Hospital, affiliated with the Yale University School of Medicine. I completed my dermatology residency at the Weill Medical College of Cornell University.

Following residency I worked as an attending physician at Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center, during which time I specialized in cutaneous oncology and photodynamic therapy. I also have a background in immunology, and my research has been published in a variety of medical journals, including the Journal of the American Medical Association.

Womenetics: What are the biggest misperceptions about suntan lotion?
King: Many people believe that the sun is only harmful to their skin if they burn. They believe that as long as they are using enough sunblock to prevent sunburn then the sun exposure is not dangerous. This is simply not true.

We know that the most common forms of skin cancer, basal cell and squamous cell carcinoma, result primarily from cumulative lifetime sun exposure, regardless of whether or not there was sunburn. Wrinkles, leathery skin texture, and other cosmetic problems that result from sun exposure also are the result of cumulative sun damage, not just burns.

There is no such thing as a healthy tan. A tan is produced by our skin as a defense mechanism. It is only produced when our cells are being damaged.

Womenetics: Why did you decide to endorse a product?
King: I am excited to lend my voice and credentials to a product line I believe in. I like that Nelsons Pure & Clear takes a natural approach with gentle, natural ingredients that are not too irritating to the skin.

Many over-the-counter acne products rely on harsh chemicals such as benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid, which can end up causing more harm than benefit because they dry and irritate the skin. The Pure & Clear products are unique in their natural, gentle, and homeopathic approach.

Womenetics: How can you prevent suntan lotion from causing breakouts?
King: If your skin is acne prone, you'll want to use a sunscreen designed just for your face and another for the rest of your body. Look for an oil-free face sun lotion that is specifically formulated not to clog your pores -- the technical term is noncomedogenic. If your body is also prone to breakouts, choose an oil-free body sunscreen that's also noncomedogenic.

If you have a topical acne medication you use, apply it to your clean skin first, and then apply the sunscreen 30 minutes before going out into the sun. As soon as you come inside, wash the sunscreen off. If you've tried a certain brand of sunscreen and it has caused breakouts then try another one.

Womenetics: How high of an SPF should a person use?
King: A sunscreen's SPF, or sun protection factor, measures how much the product shields shorter-wave ultraviolet B rays, known as UVB radiation, which can cause sunburn.

If adequately applied, sunscreens with sky-high SPFs offer only slightly better protection from sunburn than an SPF 30. The difference in UVB protection between an SPF 100 and an SPF 50 is marginal. Far from offering double the blockage, SPF 100 blocks 99 percent of UVB rays, while SPF 50 blocks 98 percent. SPF 30 blocks 96.7 percent of UVB rays. I therefore generally recommend using a sunblock that has SPF 30 or higher.

But it is important to keep in mind that you will need to reapply every two hours or after swimming or sweating to maintain the SPF.

Womenetics: What is sebum and how does it affect our skin during the summer?
King: In response to heat and humidity, our skin produces more oil, or sebum. This sebum can clog pores and cause acne. It therefore becomes more important to cleanse the skin regularly with a light, oil-free cleanser.

Because the air is more humid and our skin is producing more sebum, we can often forego heavy moisturizers that may have been necessary during the winter months. We can instead use a serum or a light oil-free residue. This is also ideal for layering underneath sunblock.

Womenetics: What are sun-sensitizing products and how can we tell?
King: It is important to be aware that many products we use (both topically and systemically) for our skin, particularly products for acne, can make our skin more sensitive to the sun. Prescription oral antibiotics and topical retinoid creams as well as many over-the-counter acne products are sun-sensitizing.

Womenetics: If we use self-tanning creams, do we still need to use sunblock?
King: Unless specifically stated by the product, self-tanners generally do not contain sun block and therefore do not offer any protection from the sun. It is still necessary to wear sunblock.

Womenetics: What are other tips do you have for healthy summer skin?
King: Exfoliation is important year-round to remove the dull dead skin cells that accumulate on the surface of the skin and make your skin look dull and dry. But after wearing sunblock, particularly products that are water-resistant or have high SPF, exfoliation can be even more important to remove the sunblock residue.

Use a body scrub in the shower, gently rubbing the exfoliator in circular movements over your entire body from the shoulders down (you'll want to use a gentler facial exfoliator for the face and neck) and then rinse.

Womenetics: How must we adjust our skin care for the summer as we age?
King: Sun protection is important at every age so I do not think that this part of summer skin care needs to be adjusted as we age.

Womenetics: Should adult acne be treated differently than teenage acne?
King: Acne must always be treated on a case-by-case basis because every patient is different, but we can generalize to some extent. Teens tend to have oilier skin, which means that they will be able to better tolerate topical acne medications that can be drying and irritating, compared to older patients with drier and often more sensitive skin.

Adult patients may require gentler topical formulations, including lower percentages of benzoyl peroxide or retinoids, or more moisturizing vehicles, or alternative ingredients.

Another difference is that adult acne in women is often primarily hormonal, flaring perimenstrually, occurring in the chin and jaw area, and often inflammatory. Therefore, the most effective medications may also be hormonal, such as an oral contraceptive or spironolactone.

Mary Welch is a freelance writer for the Atlanta Journal Constitution, Dawson Times, Plan Your Meeting magazine, and Atlanta Business magazine. Previously, she held many positions with Leader Publishing, including editor-in-chief of Atlanta Woman, editor of Business to Business magazine, and editor of Catalyst magazine. As editor of Business to Business, she assigned, edited, and conceptualized a series that was awarded Silver in the 2005 GAMMA Awards for Best Series. Welch was a reporter for the Atlanta Business Chronicle for eight years and freelanced for publications including Glamour, Advertising Age, South, Georgia Trend, and Oz. From 2000 to 2003, she served as vice president of media relations for Bank of America, during which time she authored Forever Green: A History and Hope of the American Forest with Rolling Stones keyboardist Chuck Leavell.